Blast From Repast

Durant’s, 2611 North Central, Phoenix, 602-264-5967. Hours: Lunch, Monday through Friday, 11 a.m. to 4 p.m.; Dinner, Monday through Thursday, 4 to 10 p.m.; Friday, 4 to 11 p.m.; Saturday 5 to 11 p.m.; Sunday 4:30 to 10 p.m. When I first ate at Durant’s about 15 years ago, it…

Pomme Reader

A rose by any other name might be called an apple. That’s right; apples are in the rose family. So are pears, cherries, apricots, peaches, plums, strawberries and raspberries. Who knew? Apples, unlike their brethren, are winter’s fruit. Most varieties are available from early fall through spring. For all its…

Taco Bender

I moved to the Valley last February from Austin, Texas — a land of magical tacos, a taco Narnia. The tacos, which I dream about nearly every night, were stuffed with tender steak or white-meat chicken. They were marinated in flavorful sauces, with names like suiza, chipotle, ancho, pasilla, borracho,…

Food FX

Don’t hate me because my food is beautiful. It just turns out that way. It looked good before I went to culinary school. I never just throw food on a plate. And I can’t arrange food on any old plate. Joan Crawford hated wire clothes hangers; I hate paper plates…

Girth of a Nation

Seasons Rotisserie & Grill, 10050 North Scottsdale Road, Scottsdale, 480-443-1300. Hours: Lunch, Monday through Friday, 11:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m.; Dinner, nightly after 5:30 p.m. Is there such a thing as American Cuisine? The answer to that question depends on a smorgasbord of social, culinary and historic facts, as well…

Hive and Seek

Honey was the only sweetener available for most of man’s history. It was difficult and often dangerous to obtain. Honey poachers were often put to death. Our love for sweets has endured. Despite a wide choice of sweeteners on the market, honey remains popular. It’s almost a primal love. Man’s…

Season’s Eatings

For many years, my family celebrated the holidays by ourselves. All the major groups of relatives were located 38 hours away by car so we rarely saw them. Most of our interactions with cousins and aunts and uncles took place via the U.S. Postal Service. Then came cheap airfares. And…

Dulce Treat

Why does it seem like every out-of-town guest wants to drive to Mexico? “Because it’s so close,” they plead. They’ve obviously never endured that stretch of I-10 between Phoenix and Tucson. If you’ve lived in Phoenix long enough, you’ve probably been coerced, or victimized, into the dreaded Trip to Nogales…

Nut Case

Growing up in Arizona, I’ve never had a strong sense of season. For starters, we only have two: hot and warm. Being a seasonal dyslexic, I relied on artificial clues to tell when the seasons were changing. As spring approached, the population dwindled, and people wore short-sleeved shirts with their…

Second Helpings

Message to Santa: Peace on Earth? Goodwill toward men? A Christmas bonus? The Big Guy at the North Pole never seems to deliver on my personal, end-of-year wishes. Maybe this year he’ll at least consider my professional requests. Plenty of restaurants in this town need to get their acts in…

A Simple Pan

CREW, 34505 North Scottsdale Road (El Pedregal Marketplace), Scottsdale, 480-488-8840. Hours: Lunch, 11:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. Monday through Saturday; closed for lunch Sunday; Dinner, 5:30 to 9 p.m. Sunday through Thursday; 5:30 to 10 p.m. Friday and Saturday. The proprietors of year-old CREW modestly describe their restaurant as a…

Gimmick Shelter

A barren island in the San Francisco Bay, Alcatraz was from 1933 to 1963 the site of the notorious federal prison known by its residents as “The Rock” and famous for its inescapability. Rain forests, found around the world near the Equator, are wet jungles characterized by incredibly dense flora…

Pro Knifer

I love food. As an obsessed foodie, I believe that cooking is a lot like making love. Like most lovers, I have a special place where my food fantasies seem closer to reality. Welcome to the secret world of restaurant supply. I remember my first visit to a restaurant supply…

Small Wonders

D’Atri’s Cinema Paradiso, 10303 North Scottsdale Road (Windmill Plaza), Scottsdale, 480-348-0377. Hours: Lunch, Tuesday through Saturday, 11 a.m. to 3 p.m.; Dinner, Tuesday through Saturday, 5 to 9 p.m.; closed Sunday and Monday. Isn’t it wonderful to live in a city teeming with cafes? Cafe life is so vibrant, just…

Second Helpings

What a Waste: Everyone knows the acronym GIGO — Garbage In, Garbage Out. Usually, it refers to the pitfalls of computer programming or, more generally, mapping any plan. These days, though, it may refer to what’s going into our bodies. Literally. According to a recent Wall Street Journal article, chefs…

Bubble Belt

No drink says “let’s celebrate” better than champagne. No night says “let’s party” louder than New Year’s Eve. Need to buy a bottle of champagne by year’s end? You’re not alone. Finding a decent bottle of bubbles to ring in the new year doesn’t have to be a champagne in…

There’s Something About Mary Elaine’s

Mary Elaine’s, The Phoenician, 6000 East Camelback, Phoenix, 480-941-8200. Hours: Dinner, Monday through Thursday, 6 to 10 p.m.; Friday and Saturday, 6 to 11 p.m. This is the time of year when many folks take stock and count their blessings. Right now, I imagine the executives at the opulent Phoenician…

Honk If You Love Cheeses

I’ve been going to an annual Christmas party for 16 years. Everyone brings an appetizer and a bottle of wine. I like the wine. Half the people bring something cheesy. One man crushes those little cheese crackers into a paste, and somehow manages to get this paste to adhere to…

Second Helpings

Grateful Thanks: This is the time of year when we count our blessings. Yes, I’m grateful for family, friends, mild Phoenix winters and the extension of the Squaw Peak Parkway. But as someone who eats out 225 times a year, here’s what makes me particularly warm with gratitude: I’m thankful…

The Ho Chi Menu Trail

Dong A, 4808 North 35th Avenue, Phoenix, 602-841-4152. Hours: Lunch, Monday, 10:30 a.m. to 3 p.m.; Lunch and Dinner, Tuesday through Friday, 10:30 a.m. to 9 p.m.; Saturday, 10 a.m. to 9 p.m.; Sunday, 10 a.m. to 8 p.m. How much of an adventurer are you? Do you buy stocks…

Second Helpings

What’s New: When the calendar turns to November, we know it’s time to welcome three things to the Valley: brown air, winter visitors and new restaurants. I can’t get excited about the first two. But a trio of new eating spots has caught my eye. I’m looking forward to checking…

Tommy’s Boy

Tomaso’s 2000, 16640 North Scottsdale Road, Scottsdale, 480-991-2000. Hours: Lunch, Monday through Friday, 11:30 a.m. to 3 p.m.; Dinner, 5 p.m. to 10, seven days a week. In the old days, when the West was being settled, development took a predictable course. First came the explorers. Then came the hunters…