PLEASANT UNDER GLOSS
Bamboo Club, Biltmore Fashion Park, 2596 East Camelback, Phoenix, 955-1288. Hours: Lunch and Dinner, Monday through Saturday, 11:30 a.m. to midnight; Sunday, 5 p.m. to midnight. Does your idea of a great meal out mean hunting for a funky, inexpensive joint, with Formica-topped tables, semifluent servers and offbeat specialties posted…