The 411

Yes, that was us (the New Times group) crashing the 944 party last week at Christopher’s Fermier and Brasserie. 944 is a new magazine that, as far as I can figure, celebrates breast implants. It’s a glossy four-color thing plush with photos of drunken women hanging out (literally) in the…

Coyote Ugly

Some things are just so male. There are events that fascinate guys in ways I’ll never understand. Like last week, after a squirrel crawled into my car engine, I considered it a bad thing. After driving with me a few blocks, the poor creature didn’t fare well at all. My…

Martha Does Mexico

One minute you are on top of the world; the next you are not. Resigning from the New York Stock Exchange is not the answer (or maybe it is), but perhaps a little working vacation in Phoenix would help ease your stress. Come on, Martha Stewart, get away to my…

Villa Manila

New baby smell. If a manufacturer could package that, I’d buy it by the bucket. And I don’t even like kids all that much. But the owner of Manila Café in Chandler is jostling a teeny child on her arm and stops by our table to show the infant off…

Worlds Apart

Recently, a seemingly innocent question about Southwestern cuisine has made me think more closely about the differences between Southwestern and Mexican food. I am sure there are many chefs and foodies who have different opinions. This is only my opinion based on my experience, studies and travels. Besides, I am…

Bovine Intervention

We need another upscale steak house. Not. So many of these fancy meat markets have opened up in the Valley over the past year, I’ve got to wonder about the potential of a cow shortage. Not only are there so many beef-oriented restaurants around suddenly, but the portions they serve…

IV League

Elisabeth has given me an IV bag, and while she had suspected I would like it, she’s surprised at how very much. It’s a thing we do, my sister and I, bestowing upon each other questionable gifts. (The IV — the intravenous kind, not the Roman numeral — is in…

Rick’s Rokery?

Excuse my drool. Richardson Browne, owner of Richardson’s and Dick’s Hideaway in Phoenix, is opening a new restaurant. And it sounds so good that, after printing out the e-mail information I begged out of him, I’m tempted to eat it. He’s been highly secretive about his plans for the longest…

Discovering Honduras

If I judged most of the Mexican and Latino eating establishments in the Phoenix area based on their outer appearance, I would hardly ever eat out. The expression “Never judge a book by its cover” is true at Restaurante Centro Americano in Phoenix. Turnoff Number One: Located just south of…

Acacia Mistaken Identity

My guest for dinner at the Four Seasons Resort’s flagship restaurant, Acacia, is finally relaxing. He’s settled back into his oversize, high-backed armchair and is fingering the stem of his wineglass thoughtfully. A lazy grin appears on his face. “You know,” he says cheerfully, “this is all right.” And it…

Mercado Magic

I decide to go grocery shopping on a Sunday. And for a minute, I forget I am in Arizona. In the largest open-air marketplace in North America, Mercado de la Merced, located just a short distance from the original Aztec Tenochtitlán market in Mexico City, you stand among a sea…

Full Scale Alert

Aieee! It’s the attack of the mutant killer salmon! Following deeply disturbing news reports of 115,000 farm-raised Atlantic salmon escaping in Washington state waters in 1999, and 300,000 salmon escaping in Maine waters in 2000, more than 200 grocers, restaurants and seafood distributors nationwide have called for a ban on…

Success Story

As you enter the backdoor entrance of Durant’s restaurant in Phoenix, you cannot help but notice the hardworking cooks trying to hide their sweat and fatigue while giving you a friendly smile and muffled hello in broken English. The Valley’s kitchens are full of these men and women in white…

The Name Game

Roaring Fork chef Robert McGrath is offering his help to other local restaurateurs. Concerned that his competition appears to be challenged in their ability to name things, he says he’s willing to give assistance in baby monikers. Should parents find themselves stumped upon the birth of their child, McGrath says…

September Salute

For chain Mexican restaurants, it’s bigger than New Year’s in terms of revenues. Their budgeting depends on it. Special events and promotions are brought in, the bartenders get ready to sell tons of Coronas and shots of Cuervo Gold tequila, and the local police are on extra alert. Welcome to…

Meat Loaf Market

Who’d have thought I’d find really terrific, wow-that’s-good meat loaf in a nightclub? But I did, served at Soho, right alongside potent concoctions like an espresso martini (a creamy, macho blend of Stoli Vanil, Kahlúa, Frangelico, espresso and Bailey’s) and a decor that’s downscale Goth. Black and burgundy velvet curtains,…

Worshiping the Devil

My tab for three martinis will be $22.50. Plus tax and tip. Ouch. Is it just me, or does meeting a friend for a drink these days require a pretty healthy wallet situation? The two of us plan to make the best of it, loitering at the bar for more…

Twinkie Twinkie Little Star

New York chef Christopher Sells takes credit for creating the deep-fried Twinkie. It’s exactly as it sounds: Twinkies are dipped in vinegar-based fish-and-chips batter before being dunked in 400-degree oil. For a gourmet touch, he sprinkles the hot Twinkies with confectioner’s sugar and rests them atop a four-berry coulis. It’s…

Heat Stroke of Genius

My friend is visiting from Hawaii, the year-round paradise of Maui. He wants to embrace Arizona despite its bright full sunlight, he’s insisting, with a special emphasis on checking out all my favorite Mexican hole-in-the-wall restaurants. (Maui is beautiful, but simple, satisfying Sonoran cuisine has yet to make it to…

Western Flair

Infamous Van Buren Street is notorious for prostitutes, dilapidated hotels and a quick drug deal. Or at least I hear it is. But next Sunday, when you are done mowing the lawn, cleaning the pool and reading the paper, load the family into the SUV and take an excursion to…

Summer Teeth

Whatever happened to sleeping through the summer? Remember how the Valley used to just shut down during the warm months, and to work was considered some sort of crime? Somebody tell that to our chefs today. The toqued talent has been busy lately, opening new operations and renovating existing ones…