Science, Fiction

The dust jackets of Diana Gabaldon’s novels inform us that she “holds a master’s degree in Marine Biology and a Ph.D. in ecology, none of which has anything whatever to do with her books.” True enough. Virile Scotsmen romancing spirited heroines, exhaustive historical detail and time-travel fantasy — that’s the…

Chili Reception

Pity the poor Chilihead. As if Chili’s employees didn’t already have enough grief in their working conditions (they’re barraged with that creepy “baby back ribs” TV jingle), they’ve got to suffer through what’s surely one of the most pea-brained training manuals in restaurantdom.It seems Chili’s corporate management knows no bounds…

Scorcher Chamber

We’re picking things out of our tom yum soup at Jax Thai Bar, a Tempe restaurant that’s the newest addition to Mill Avenue’s increasingly cosmopolitan culinary scene. Barklike nubs of galangal, a southeast Asian vegetable that’s a member of the ginger family. Whole kaffir lime leaves, dark green and similar…

Chefs’ Surprise? Sell Convivo

In what has to be one of the most fiercely guarded transactions of the year in Valley restaurant circles, Convivo has been sold to former Different Pointe of View chef Jeffrey Beeson.The sale is noteworthy on its own — former owners Mark and Pat Bloom made the tiny, New American-themed…

Grill Instructor

“The problem in Phoenix, the way I see it, anyway, is that there is a real separation of the Latinos and the Anglos.” Mad Coyote Joe isn’t talking about bilingual education versus English immersion, or South Phoenix versus North Phoenix. He’s talking about restaurant culture. “You go to Albuquerque, New…

Forn Affairs

The phone is ringing again, rattling in its perch on the reservations podium next to the bar at Acqua e Sale. We’ve been listening to it all through dinner, not because it’s an irritation to our meal, but because we’ve been eavesdropping on the host. He’s telling yet another caller…

Dot-Bomb

Another dot-com company has gone bust, hitting several local freelance restaurant writers where it really hurts — in the pocketbook. Instead of collecting overdue paychecks, contributors to Foodline.com are being offered used furniture and computer hardware salvaged from Foodline’s corporate offices in New York. How an Arizona resident is supposed…

Party All the Time

It’s the day after Election Day, and I’m having lunch in the heart of Mesa with a Communist elected official. If that’s not surreal enough, neither of us yet knows for sure who the next president of the United States will be. Nor does CNN.Fabricio Rodriguez, student body vice president…

Small Carafe Warning

If you order your wine by the glass when you go out for dinner, you may be getting gouged.Some high-end restaurateurs are increasing their already inflated profits on booze by hiding small servings behind those elegant, single-serving carafes and humongous glasses. You’ve seen them popping up at places like Tarbell’s,…

West World

There’s a new book out called Zeguts. It should not be confused with the international restaurant guide of the similar name, Zagat. Because while both track dining establishments and rate them on similar terms of concept, food quality and ambiance, Zeguts is strictly a parody of made-up establishments.At least I…

A Bone to Pick

Brian Curtice breaks a tortilla chip into three pieces and lays them out on his napkin to represent three dinosaur bones. He’s explaining to me how he turned three dinosaurs into one, and pissed off the paleontological community to boot.”At the time, there were supposed to be three supergiants from…

Zuppa Duper

To hear many native New Yorkers talk about it, you’d think they invented neighborhood-style Italian food. From antipasto to baked pasta, lasagna to ravioli and, of course, pizza, nobody does it better than the folks in the Big Apple. What gives? It’s not as if the requirements for back-East-style Italian…

Party Hardy

Pack 40 of the nation’s top chefs into extremely close quarters, arm them with sharp knives, and what happens? Despite a rocky start in its disorganized planning stages, Saturday night’s Pleasures of the Palettes at the Phoenician turned out to be a success for its 800 or so very well-fed…

Euphonium Euphoria

“Double-belled euphoniums and big bassoons . . .”It’s a lyric from “76 Trombones” in The Music Man, and if you’ve heard of Leslie Van Zee’s favorite musical instrument, there’s a good chance that’s where you’ve heard of it. Van Zee uses only a single bell, not a double, but she…

Fossil Fuel

The dining scene for much of Sun City, Del Webb’s masterplanned commune for silver-haired citizens, is a take-it-or-leave-it proposition. Looking for exciting, cutting-edge cuisine? You won’t find it here. Area retirees tend to be armed with aging taste buds and delicate constitutions — they’re not looking for high-speed chases of…

Free Range Chefs

Great chefs are not bred to be caged in corporate kitchens. There’s no keeping these talented souls confined with menus supervised by restaurant executives in business suits — their spirits yearn to run free. What else than a reckless urge for independence and self-expression would motivate a chef to leave…

Pinhead Wizard

We’ve never seen anything like it — a strange hybrid of animal and vegetable. Beneath a shiny crimson crown are segmented layers of pinkish crustacean abdomen, and below that, a bright red base like a big single foot, oozing out semiliquid. We stare at the unnatural thing between us, so…

Unfed, and Fed Up

The Valley’s own James Boyce was celebrated Saturday night at the James Beard House in Manhattan. Boyce, chef de cuisine at the Phoenician’s Mobil Five Star Mary Elaine’s, was invited to create a spectacular tribute to the late, legendary chef Auguste Escoffier, renowned as the innovator of modern French cuisine.I’d…

Tape Worm

Upon hearing that I’m going to lunch with Lucianne Goldberg, one of my colleagues waggishly suggests, “You should have lunch with her over the phone and tape it.” Almost everyone else to whom I mention my date has to furrow his brow and be reminded of who Goldberg is –…

Irishful Thinking

Rula Bula managing partner Steven Goumas hasn’t had the easiest go of it in getting his Irish pub and restaurant ready for business. Opened in late July inside Tempe’s historic Andre building, the Gaelic eatery debuted more than a year late, thanks to a fire that gutted its structure last…

Bar ‘n’ Gill

Homebuilders everywhere have their boxers in a bunch over Proposition 202, a pending initiative that will severely limit urban sprawl across Arizona. They say turning off their bulldozers will destroy the economy. Supporters of 202, on the other hand, see the initiative as a way to limit subdivisions that are…

That’s Italian!

“This is as close as you’ll find to an Italian deli in New York out here.”Gesturing to glass cases gloriously piled full of dried sausages, Italian salads, Italian desserts, Italian everything, Patrick Lubrano says, “You can’t find stuff like this out here. I brought my mother-in-law in here, and she…