Hold the Oil

When he walks into Pizzeria Uno at the Arizona Center, it’s not hard to believe that Lenny Kohm just came in from the Arctic wilds. With his grizzled beard and plain work clothes, this slight, thin man might have wandered in from a Jack London story, or maybe a Robert…

Kaleidoscope Cuisine

The cartoon mice in Steven Spielberg’s Pinky and the Brain want to take over the world. Valley restaurateur Deborah Knight wants to bring the world to us, in her restaurant Mosaic, opened this week in north Scottsdale’s Troon neighborhood.Knight, chef and owner, has crafted a menu that emphasizes “global delicacies”…

Alice in Cafeland

It’s hot. And sticky. It’s the time of year where the only appealing recreation is to curl up in a ball in a dark corner and mutter about how Mother Nature is tormenting us with her radiance set at full blast. This is the time of year that makes dining…

Slob Story

Legend goes that once upon a time, parents set the rules of dining-out etiquette for their children. No elbows on the table. Sit up straight. Be clean. These were the days when a restaurant meal was a special experience, an event to be savored maybe just a few times a…

No Shirt, No Service

On a brutally icy afternoon last February, my husband and I wandered the streets of Manhattan’s Tribeca, looking for warmth and something light to eat a couple of hours before a dinner date.”I know where we can get martinis and munchies,” I shouted over the roar of traffic. If you’ve…

Beauty and the Bistro

It’s just after noon, and I’m waiting outside a cafe for a French blonde. I’ve been told she has a scar on her cheek. Needless to say, I’m feeling rather Graham Greene-ish.A few minutes later, Michèle Laroque shows up, wearing an elegant pantsuit and sneakers. As we shake hands, I…

Lizard Lounge

It wasn’t so many years ago that the idea of opening a restaurant during the Valley’s summer months was considered crazy. Nobody stayed in town then, preferring to flock to San Diego and cooler climes. Then again, Spyros Scocos has never been known for his conventional thinking. Scocos, co-founder of…

Hangover and Out

Never underestimate the public’s love of trash. We’ve all seen the styles — ’70s disco wear, jeans that aren’t acid-washed but simply unwashed, stumble-out-of-bed hairstyles and anything related to WWF or reality television. Whatever the reason, it’s suddenly cool to have no class. Now folks in major markets are happy…

Asia Aquarius

Sushi Brokers Pity the poor sushi. The once classic combination of pristine fish, vegetables and vinegared rice has been mainstreamed. As the number of traditional sushi bars across the United States has quadrupled over the past 10 years, so has American creativity. Decorator sushi has emerged, with bizarre combinations like…

Chain Reaction

Steve is miffed. A 12-year Valley resident and self-proclaimed weekly reader of New Times, he says he has “never been so enraged by an article to [prompt him to] respond to the paper,” except for my recent review of Seasons in Scottsdale.Really? With all the juicy stuff that appears in…

War-Winning Cuisine

I think I know why American cuisine is often so boring. We’ve never been overthrown by a hostile nation. With such a homogenous pool of settlers, Americans have never been forced to incorporate exotic cultures into their cooking. And so, our national heritage has been allowed to wallow in the…

Fork Medicine

The restaurant business is full of headaches for owners. For Robert McGrath, the daily aches and pains were indicators of something much more serious. McGrath, chef-owner of Scottsdale’s Roaring Fork, has recently returned to work after battling viral encephalitis, a serious infection that causes acute inflammation of the brain. It’s…

Scoop du Jour

If you had to pick the professional ice cream taster out of the lunch crowd at Claim Jumper in Tempe, there’s a good chance that John Harrison is the one you’d pick. He strides into the prodigious-portion eatery wearing half the colors you’ll see under the glass at an ice…

Grilled Salmonella

You don’t have to be Jerry Seinfeld to be afraid of chefs who don’t wash their hands. Bad personal hygiene is dangerous — and all too prevalent in our restaurants. And that’s one way you get food poisoning.I was recently dining at the bar of one of my favorite Mexican…

Calendar Grill

Our waiter at Seasons is wondering with us where the crowds are. It’s 8 o’clock on a Friday night, and the spacious dining room is speckled with perhaps two dozen guests. It’s like this all the time lately, he laments, and no one can figure out why. It’s a stumper…

Cheeky Service

It’s been another wonderful meal at a local restaurant, and we’re lounging over coffee, basking in the glow of full stomachs and relaxed thoughts. The setting is classy, the service has been superb — all in all, an evening worthy of the $50-plus it’s going to cost us.Our server approaches,…

Bar Trek

Bar dining isn’t anything new. Since the dawn of professional sports and big-screen TVs, patrons have been swarming bars, seeking a tall cold one. They’re content to cheer a game through with the likes of straight-from-the-freezer-bag bites like cheese sticks, potato skins, deep-fried zucchini and mushrooms, or chicken wings. Hungrier…

Wiccan à la King

Sure, the recipes inside are solidly good, even inspired. But the name, The Wicca Cookbook, is enough to choke on.Forget about “eye of newt” and “toil and trouble”: If it’s a Shakespearean cliché, a book reviewer has beat you to it. Of course, some didn’t make it past the cover…

Lens Capo

More than half of the time I sit down to lunch, probably, it’s with someone who would consider himself or herself a film lover. I’m a film lover myself. But when you sit down to lunch with Ron Walker, you’re sitting down with a film lover of a different league…

Meating Adjourned

God help the owners of Waldo’s Barbecue. The shop, with locations in Scottsdale and Mesa, has a slogan that parodies P.E.T.A. — People for the Ethical Treatment of Animals. Waldo’s take on the acronym? People who Enjoy Tasting Animals.Waldo’s is a sure-fire target for a recent P.E.T.A. campaign directed at…

Deja View

What do the well-heeled and hungry want? Great food? To dine at Different Pointe of View, arguably the Valley’s most expensive restaurant, you’d never know it. This place, long on status but short on substance, continues to pack in diners willing to pay exorbitant prices for too-often mediocre food and…

Chews in the News

The National Restaurant Association show invaded Chicago May 19-22, bringing more than 2,000 companies displaying often-dubious innovations designed to streamline restaurant operations. A few things the culinary world doesn’t need:• “Salmon pipes” are logs of precooked, processed and pressed fish bits to be served in hot dog buns at discriminating…