Call me the deli lama. My temple is the New York deli. I’ve downed enough matzo balls, stuffed cabbage and corned beef that I could be hung above the deli counter, next to the Hebrew National salami. Pictures of me as a teenager confirm it: I looked like a knish…
Spending a week’s worth of grocery money on one meal is a great way to fuel what economists call “negative revenue enhancement.” But sometimes I yearn for water glasses filled with Evian, napkins refolded if I step away from the table and used cutlery whisked away by waiters who are…
If you’re Jewish and from New York, you know three things. Guilt. Suffering. Chinese food. My earliest memories go back to Sunday evenings, when my family, abandoning with pagan intensity all the strict dietary provisions of keeping kosher, always went out for Chinese food. On one memorable occasion, guilt, suffering…
The singles-bar scene isn’t exactly my home turf. The last time I made a serious foray was before Danny Partridge started dating. But I’d heard the scene at a couple of Valley after-work mating grounds could jump-start anyone’s battery. So on a recent Friday night, I dragged along my friend…
I don’t go to Middle Eastern restaurants for the same reason I don’t look up old flames. There’s no way the present can compete with my memories of the past. Recalling years of living and eating in the Middle East-the scented rice, the fragrant lamb, the perfumed spices-stirs feelings in…
Robert Browning said it long ago, but the words describe my mood. And so I head out for a much-desired Italian-food fix. The question is, what kind of cucina d’Italia shall it be? From the sun-and-tomato-drenched south to the subtly continental north, Italy boasts unmatched variety in its cuisine. Translated…
Wise visitors to Sedona know about La Mediterranee. Located on the second floor of a Route 179 motel, this funky coffee-shop-cum-ski-chalet turns out Middle Eastern cuisine that pleases New Agers, vegetarians and carnivores alike. After all, what better activity after a vortex visit than a dip into some soothing hummus?…
South American cuisine” has a way of sounding exotic. More exotic than it really is. After all, we North Americans use many of the same ingredients in our own cooking. So how different can it be? They eat corn, potatoes, beef and chiles. We eat corn, potatoes, beef and chiles…
If I said ‘Tis the season,” I bet I’d raise an eyebrow or two. The holidays are over, babe,” some of you would say. Long gone. Dead as that bottle of champagne we killed on New Year’s Eve. History.” Well, readjust your thinking caps. I’m not talking about the holiday…
Today is Christmas. I’m no Scrooge. Instead of putting some poor restaurant through the ringer today, I thought I’d share with you some of the “gifts” I’ve received–in the form of new restaurants–in 1991. Here, then, in no particular order, are my 12 days of Christmas, my memorable finds of…
When you contemplate eating at a French restaurant, do you fret about what to wear? Do you fear some snooty waiter will allow you to unintentionally order brains for dinner? Do you suffer from “which fork” anxiety? If stress seems a natural prelude to ordering a portion of pate, I…
For someone who doesn’t live in Scottsdale, I spend a lot of time eating there. This is not due to some covert community preference on my part. It is simply because new restaurants of note continue to pop up in that affluent area of the Valley. Some, including the two…
The sawdust has been swept from the floor, the menu refined, the necktie scissors stored away. Just as country music reinvented itself with a new breed of younger, hipper artist–Lyle Lovett, Dwight Yoakam, k.d. lang, et al.–the cowboy steak house has also been revamped and updated. The new look is…
For retailers, the day after Thanksgiving is, quite simply, the biggest day of the year. The frenzied climax of a season of preparation. A dreaded and dreamed-about day when more shoppers descend upon this nation’s malls than any other–except, of course, for the day after Christmas, when shoppers bring everything…
Blame it on Wolfgang Puck. The California restaurateur is the one responsible for creating America’s voracious appetite for fancy pizza. After all, we common folk can only be expected to watch so many installments of Warren, Madonna and Jack snarfing pizza exotica at Spago on Entertainment Tonight before we, too,…
Is Southwestern cuisine passe? Are pine nuts, jicama and black beans yesterday’s ingredients? Do those of us who live here even care? In the mid-Eighties, renewed national interest in the look and flavors of Arizona and New Mexico spawned hard-to-ignore trends in restaurants and decorating. But “hot” eventually cools. “In”…
In other cities, it is not unusual for East-Indian restaurants to cluster together. In New York, for instance, good, inexpensive Indian food is easily obtained on East Sixth Street, where Indian restaurants compete side-by-side for dinner dollars. Some pull you in with offers of free spice tea, others with smells…
When cowboy-movie star Tom Mix “bought the farm” in a fatal 1940 car accident, he also left a farm behind–thousands of acres of grazing land south of Phoenix and a white adobe house. A half-century later, the “old Tom Mix house,” as it is still called, is the newest branch…
For years I’ve been hearing about Sedona. The red rocks. The vortexes. The shopping. And, yes, the restaurants. Cozy L’Auberge de Sedona has long been touted as a most romantic spot for dinner. And Canyon Rose at Los Abrigados has garnered kudos for chef Todd Hall, including an invitation to…
You are J. Fife Symington III, a man for whom the ninth-floor governor’s office is quickly turning into a scofflaw’s tower cell. Down below, another embarrassment surfaces almost every working day. If you, Fife Symington, had your way, the doors of the ninth floor would be sealed to muffle the…
In honor of Columbus Day, a holiday that has been appropriated by Italian Americans, I thought I’d investigate a couple of spaghetti houses with strong word of mouth. One turns out to be good; one, not so good. Way up in North Scottsdale, a group of thirtysomething couples enters Mamma…
The party’s over–Oktoberfest, that is. So where does one go to score sauerkraut and bratwurst once the street vendors have disappeared? Where can a lover of schnitzels and German beer go to celebrate any old time? German Corner Restaurant & Bar is one suggestion. This new, east Phoenix restaurant is…
